How to Change Your Oil

Changing your own oil is the entry point for DIY car maintenance. It takes 30–45 minutes, costs less than a shop visit, and gives you complete control over the oil and filter going into your engine. This guide covers every step from gathering tools to properly disposing of the used oil.

Gather your tools before you start

Having everything on hand before you drain a drop of oil saves a lot of frustration.

• Oil drain pan (at least 8 quarts capacity).
• Socket wrench and the correct socket size for your drain plug (usually 14mm, 17mm, or 19mm — check your manual).
• Oil filter wrench (band-style or cap-style depending on your filter type).
• Oil funnel.
• Rags or shop towels.
• Nitrile gloves.
• Jack stands or ramps if your car sits low (never work under a car on a jack alone).

Find the correct oil and filter for your car

Using the right oil spec matters more than the brand.

• Check your owner's manual for the required oil viscosity (e.g., 5W-30) and any API or manufacturer certifications required.
• Note how many quarts your engine holds — typically 4–6 quarts for most passenger cars, more for trucks and SUVs.
• Look up the correct oil filter using your year, make, and model at any auto parts store.
• Synthetic oil is recommended for most modern engines; conventional oil for older vehicles with high mileage may also be appropriate.
• Buy one extra quart — you'll need it to check the level after filling.

Warm up, position, and drain the oil

Warm oil drains completely; cold oil leaves residue in the engine.

• Run the engine for 2–3 minutes to warm the oil, then turn it off and wait 10 minutes for it to cool slightly.
• Raise the car on ramps or jack stands if needed; apply the parking brake and chock the rear wheels.
• Locate the drain plug on the oil pan — it's the lowest bolt underneath the engine.
• Position the drain pan under the plug with room to spare — hot oil streams out fast and at an angle.
• Remove the drain plug by hand once it's loose, keeping the socket pressed in to control the flow.
• Allow oil to drain fully — 5 to 10 minutes.

Remove and replace the oil filter

Always replace the filter with every oil change — a dirty filter contaminates new oil.

• Locate the filter — on most cars it's accessible from underneath or the side of the engine block.
• Use an oil filter wrench to break it loose (counterclockwise); finish unscrewing by hand.
• Tip the old filter into the drain pan — it holds about a cup of oil.
• Apply a thin coat of fresh oil to the rubber gasket on the new filter.
• Thread the new filter on by hand until snug, then tighten by hand only — do not use a wrench to tighten.

Reinstall the drain plug and add fresh oil

A snug drain plug and the correct oil quantity prevent leaks and engine damage.

• Clean the drain plug threads and the oil pan surface with a rag.
• Thread the drain plug back in by hand, then tighten with a wrench to the torque specified in your manual (often 18–30 ft-lb for a steel plug; plastic plugs take far less).
• Remove the oil filler cap on top of the engine (marked with an oil can symbol).
• Add oil through the funnel — start with one less quart than the full capacity.
• Check the level with the dipstick and top up to the full mark.
• Replace the filler cap securely.

Start the engine and check for leaks

The first start after an oil change is when leaks reveal themselves — don't skip this step.

• Start the engine and let it idle for 60 seconds.
• Watch the oil pressure light — it should go off within 5 seconds of startup. If it stays on, shut the engine off right away (what the oil pressure light means).
• Check underneath for drips around the drain plug and filter.
• Turn the engine off, wait 2 minutes, then recheck the dipstick level — add oil if needed.
• Reset the oil life monitor or maintenance reminder if your car has one (method varies by vehicle — check the manual).

Dispose of used oil properly and log the service

Used motor oil is recyclable — and illegal to dump.

• Pour used oil from the drain pan into a sealed container — the old oil bottles work well.
• Take it to any auto parts store (AutoZone, O'Reilly, Advance Auto) — they accept used oil for free.
• Put the old filter in a plastic bag and take it with the oil — most stores accept filters too.
• Log the service: date, odometer, oil weight and brand, filter part number, and cost.
• Note when the next change is due (your manual's interval in miles or time, whichever comes first).

First time? Take it slow on the drain plug and filter. The plug gets a new washer and the torque from your manual; the filter goes on by hand, about three-quarters of a turn after its gasket touches the base. Overtightening cracks the oil pan or strips threads. If you're unsure, err toward snug over tight.

An oil change done yourself takes 30–45 minutes and costs 30–50% less than a quick-lube shop. More importantly, you know exactly what went in. Do it on schedule, log it every time, and your engine will thank you with years of reliable service.

For how the oil system behind the drain plug works, see the engine oil system: what every part does. For a full picture of what else to maintain and when, see our 10 car reliability tips to prevent breakdowns.

Related guides

• Oil Change Checklist
• The Engine Oil System Explained
• How to Lift a Car Safely
• How to Choose and Use a Torque Wrench
• How to Keep a Car Maintenance Log
• Maintenance Schedules by Make and Model